ETNA GRAPE MUST PUDDING

Etna is an area of Sicily where every agricultural activity follows its own timetable.

While the rest of the island harvests olives in October, on the volcano the must from our treasured grapes is fermenting vigorously.

The way we make wine here has certainly changed dramatically over the last ten years. Once the qualities of grapes grown in lava soil were discovered, a gold rush began. People arrived from elsewhere in Italy, neighbouring countries and even other continents to buy and cultivate their own prestigious Etna vineyard.
The apparent barrenness of volcanic stone has turned green, revealing its unique value to the light of day.

Now that the climate is warmer and the heavy sweatshirts we wore for the grape harvest have given way to short-sleeved cotton shirts, a little chill can still be felt beneath the skin.
The liveliness of the harvest celebration has faded into the tedium of a task necessarily mechanised.

As children, we loved treading grapes in the palmento and smelling of must until evening.

But the harvest did not end there. The next day, a plate of mostarda appeared: one for every family that had taken part.
Everything seemed so natural, so obvious. Now we cling to those flavours, rituals and simple goodness so that we never forget childhood.